Tuna Tartare Served with Cucumber Carpaccio, Ginger and Crostini
Another classic recipe that premiere on the opening menu and has be available lunch and dinner every since at the Madison location. Again the recipe and dish illustrates how barneys allowed me to venture out of my peasant Italian cooking and into more current food tends. Tuna tartare happened to become an American classic along the way and big favorite in Beverly Hills and Chicago. The House of barneys was a major player in the 80’s and 90’s when Japanese style and taste came into vogue with the entertainment and media set. Comme de Garson suits and shirts were the rage and so was sushi. Tuna is the ingredient synonymous with sushi. Tuna is graded and judged the same way fine fabrics are graded, Tuna by master sushi chefs and cotton by tailors who decide what is the best. What makes tuna a prize is the fat content in the meat. Color is very important because the fat that larger fishes have creates a deeper rich burgundy red. Similar to the way Japanese die their denim fabric indigo. It’s the rich depth of the color that makes it special. The same is with tuna. Tuna in the market uses a grading system. We use #1 or 2 plus depending on the time of year and the way the fish are running. The true test of good sushi quality tuna is the deep color and slight soft feel of the meat, which makes it perfect for the tartare. You want the texture of the tuna to resemble freshly ground beef. Sushi quality tuna is best minced with a knife rather then grinding of the meat as in a traditional tartare. It’s also best to prepare the plate with the sliced cucumbers ahead of time. Wrap them and store in the refrigerator until ready to serve. The tartare should be made to order and served immediate with thin crostini make from baguettes.
Ingredients
4 oz. Sushi grade tuna
1 tsp. minced ginger
1 tbsp. minced chives
1 tsp. Sesame oil
½ tsp. Rice vinegar
1 tsp. Soy sauce
½ tsp. Monini extra virgin olive oil
Pinch of kosher salt
¼ Japanese cucumber sliced paper-thin with a Japanese vegetable slicer
For seasoning the cucumbers
Pinch of kosher salt
½ tsp. Sesame oil
¼ tsp. Rice vinegar
½ tsp. Soy sauce
Pickled ginger to garnish
Toasted garlic rubbed Baguette croutons
Preparation
To make the croutons cut the baguette bread on slight bias (see pic). Visualize 12 o’clock on a watch dial and equate the knife angle to a straight cut then turn the knife to 1 o’clock and slice three ½ inch thick slices. Toast in a 325 degree preheated oven until the bread becomes hard and crisp and moisture has dried out. Do not let the color go past golden brown, remove and cool to room temperature.
The cucumber is sliced paper-thin hence the Carpaccio. Today the term Carpaccio is used for any preparation made with thinly sliced. It also creates and nice symmetrical look with the cool sensation of the cucumber counterbalances the tangy umami flavors that season the tuna. Cascade the cucumber in the shape of the round flower covering half of the previous slice of cucumber with the next slice. Create the circle leaving the center of the plate empty to fit a 3-inch metal round mold form (see pic) to place the tuna in to shape the patty for the final presentation
Mince the tuna by cutting the meat into ¼ long strips. Lay the strips down and cut lengthwise again. Rotate the strips 90 degrees and cut the tuna as thin as possible making the meat into little cubes that remember tiny dice. Place in a small bowl and add all the ingredients mixing with a small soupspoon. Mix for one to two minutes so all the flavors permeate the tuna.
Place the medal round cylinder mold (3x 2in. wide) in the center of the plate. Gently push the cucumber up against the wall of the mold and stuff all the tuna in the cylinder. Remove the mold and season the cucumber soy, sesame oil and rice vinegar. Place the croutons around the cucumbers at ten, four and seven using the clock visual for the plate.
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