Chef’s Note: If the ricotta appears wet or runny, be sure to strain it for at least 2 hours (or overnight) before mixing the filling. You can make the filling 1 week ahead of time if you like, and store in an airtight container in the fridge until ready to use.

In a food processor, pulse together the flour, salt, and butter. Add the wine and water and pulse until dough rides up on the blade and forms a silky but stringy dough.

Transfer the dough to a large, lightly greased bowl and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Let rest for 2 hours at room temperature (or 24-48 hours in the fridge).

While the dough rests, make the filling: In a medium bowl, gently mix together the sugar, ricotta, and lemon zest to taste (mix by hand or use a mixer with a paddle attachment). Take care not to overwork the cheese. Store in an airtight container in the fridge until ready to use.

Once the dough has rested, turn it out onto a well-floured surface. Using as much additional flour as needed to work the dough and prevent it from sticking to the table, roll the dough out to approximately 1/16-inch thickness. Brush any excess flour from the dough.

Cut 15-18 rounds, 3-4 inches in diameter each, from the dough, rerolling the scraps once if needed to create enough rounds. Place the rounds on a parchment-lined sheet pan, covering the dough carefully with plastic wrap as you work to prevent it from drying out.

Wrap each circle of dough around a cannoli form, using a bit of the egg yolk to seal each cannoli shell closed.

Heat several inches of oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot until the temperature reaches 350ºF. Add the cannoli shells in batches, fully submerging them in the oil, and fry until golden, 2-3 minutes. Carefully remove the shells from the cannoli forms and set the shells aside to cool.

Fill the cannoli shells with the ricotta mixture, then dip the ends into your garnish of choice.